Thursday, 23 October 2025

World Adventure Race Championships 2025

 

World Adventure Race Canada 2025



This is us.

Day and night no longer exists, it's just light and dark. Time is hidden away in a bag I can no longer access, my watch and phone abandoned for the week.
It's liberating, no one can beckon me at any hour on their terms, for a moment I own my time.
I love the anticipation of what's to come, it's a parallel existence.
It's a world that’s part real, part fantasy and, to be fair, sometimes part nightmare!
This is adventure racing, this is extreme holidaying and fast tourism.
I dare you to try it, trust me it will change your life.

Leaving on traditional school buses to the start.

I believe adventure racing is one of the toughest sports out there; it pushes you to the limit of what is physically possible as a human, it's a way to seek out the edges.

It's really diverse, you have to be reasonably good at multiple sports and that makes training a real conundrum. You need a very strong mind game, a body that can handle extremes and the ability to work tightly with three other people while under pressure and sleep deprived. You need excellent personal admin and the ability to communicate and to be heard. It's a rare combination of skills.

ARWS Canada promised roughly 800km, 20,000m elevation and a 10-day cut off but these are just unrelatable numbers, let's just say it's long and hilly.

This was my 3rd expedition length race and first time at a world championships. It was audacious of me to believe I could do it yet it is typical of me to purposefully force myself into this kind of scenario. I often put myself into situations I'm unsure of, I do this because I believe that's where the growth is, it teaches me more about who I am and who I want to be.
No matter how old you are there are lessons to be learnt and parts of yourself to discover, we just have to open the door for the opportunity to see it and learn it.
Pressure highlights your cracks, and I see how people react, sometimes I don’t like what I see and it teaches me who 
I want to be.
Racing has taught me dignity even though at times its completely undignified, its taught me to be honest with how 
I behave under pressure , being within a team has taught me about who I want to be surrounded by, surviving or thriving in a race are two very different experiences.
The best teams fight for each other, they put team mates before themselves, they are accountable for their actions and each member brings the best version of themself to the race. Thats what makes the fastest teams the best teams.

The flag parade with the local music and dancing it was energetic and colourful.

Anyway onto some lessons from the race…

You can see our tents under Mount Currie.


Arriving in Pemberton to stay in tents on north arm farm I felt quite calm, all the work was done. I couldn’t change anything now. I just had to do what I came here to do. Mount Currie loomed above us and we were surrounded by fields of colourful vibrant flowers. The electric fence around the tents kept the local bear out or arguably us in.
The air hung heavy with moisture and the subtle drum of tension was palpable. Everyone just finalising maps (no gps or mobile phones allowed)and fiddling with kit.
I ate an ice cream with three flavours that didnt blend well together while sat on a swing,
it felt like a normal thing to do in an abnormal situation.
I had to practice feeling calmness, strictly controlling my excitable mind and not letting anxiety twist my energy. My mantra ‘ no one is born an athlete, you’ve done the work to be here’
I've always felt different , 

I'm always the crazy one, and yet here are all the other crazy people, my legs are no longer the centre of attention, here big quads are celebrated , 
I look around and see people who have designed themselves to be able to carry heavy shit, there is no cockiness , the race is too hard to promote that , no one is foolish enough to think they can cruise this. We all know what's coming and we have prepared ourselves the best we can.
I'm nervous yet extremely focussed, I need a wee.

Excited for some racing.


It was an early start and the air was cold . I felt like I was shaking with anticipation. “I know I can do this”. I’m ready to hurt.
The initial start was utterly comedic as we barrelled on foot through a cornfield in mountain bike shoes (it was like an opening scene from a horror movie apart from everyone was laughing)where we then had to pick and shuck corns, from there we jumped on our bikes and headed to Pemberton’s bike trails. I immediately felt at home . I really had to rain it in as I love technical mountain bike trails.
It was dry ,dusty and loose with intresting slabs. I was so happy. High on adrenaline and feeling giddy with joy. It was sexy bike riding, hero turns and berms, even the sound of my tyres locking up during hard braking felt class, a plume of dust in my wake.
Views and good trails, I thought of my friends from home and how they would love this bit.
Once we hit the road, a peloton of racers kept the speed at the very top, anyone would think it was a day race , it was silly and fun.
Soon we hit the base of a 1800meter climb which shattered the pack like the white ball on a pool table.
There was some steep ramps within the climb ,it was really punchy and energy slashing, a test of grit early on.

Heading towards the glacier and the lakes.


Soon we arrived at the top , ditched the bikes and walked up to the glacier. Its a feast for the eyes and a shock for the calves. Every time I go to these places I think about how I would like to pitch my tent and just sit in this space with no purpose what so ever. The weather took a slight turn but nothing wild. It felt big and I felt smaller than usual.
We crossed paths with other teams and there was a buzz around the place, we disrupted the serenity, typical humans!


Back on the bikes, we headed towards the first big paddle across carpenter lake.
As I got into my dry suit, it felt a wee bit itchy. 12 hours later I had the stark realisation. I’m allergic to the latex which is rather unfortunate given I was to be spending a lot of time in this drysuit. Thankfully, I had antihistamines and enthusiasm- itching wasn’t gonna stop me. But i looked literally like a red neck.


On the left you can see two tiny dots- thats us!

The first night in the pack rafts was tough tougher than I’d expected. We had stopped to take some pills and the wind had rotated us, what we didn’t realise is that we were heading in the wrong direction, after we had stopped we had gone hours in the wrong direction. When you’re on a pitch black lake with no point of reference, It’s so easy to do this we should’ve done a bearing check but we didn’t. This was our first psychological test.
On the plus side shooting stars peppered the sky and the wind was kind.
All night, we paddled . Eventually we hit the head of the dam where we then clambered up a steep sandy exit and packed away the pack rafts, we then hauled them over a mountain to the next lake. 
 It was only 14km but it was straight up and straight down. I felt like a turtle with a high rise on their back, if I tipped over at any moment I'd be stuck on my back with my arms and legs in the air and would need to be upturned back onto my feet.
On the plus side if I was to sit down (unlikely)it was like having a deck chair attached to you. Its very important to remember you have two paddles sticking high above your head, when you forget its like someone is trying to pull you over from behind or you knock leaves and dew down on yourself, you also must not walk through doorways as there is a high chance of either landing on your butt or braking the glass door.

Portaging to the entrance to the rapids.

A local indigenous lady stood at the edge of the lake and played a traditional drum while singing us out onto the next lake. It really hit me in the heart. Huge mountains surrounded us ,powerful water carried us and the sound of her drum and voice really got me in the feels.
This is their land and they are so connected to it. It felt like an honour to be there.
The choppy waters made me feel sea sick.
After negotiating the first small set of rapids of the race, we arrived in Lillot , the takeout was rather fishy as it’s the end of the salmon run and there were lots of dead salmon, I still tried not to stand on them as it felt cruel. It’s a reminder of how nature busily work around us and of the life cycle of the amazing salmon, we were in their home -the river.

Onto an 87km 2500m bike ride and i was glad to be on the bike, riding a bike to me is almost like walking I find it very peaceful and after 20 years of cycling my legs go round in circles better than straight lines.
We got offered beer by some happy campers ‘alas not today my friends’.

Arriving at the ranch that was TA5 felt like such a novelty , a ranch like in the movies, we have piles of slurry  with angry farmers and here they have ranch’s with bears and long picket fences, we needed to sleep so slept between two combine harvesters  for two hours on the floor in our bivvy bags (without sleeping bags)there was a chill in the air ,but I definitely slept , I know this cause I woke up with a crusty face from dribbling and a dead arm from lying on it. As the sun rose, we left for the 73K trek. I remember thinking to myself “What a great day to be alive.”

Travelling through the indigenous territory surrounded by farmland as a gentle soft sun rose the air was crisp and fresh , the light was soft with a false promise of sun, cows wandered aimlessly amongst the vast landscape. This terrain looked different. We climbed endlessly to a firewatch tower and today I struggled. I struggle with fire road on foot as it really hurts my knee. I’m much better on technical terrain so today I just suffered and that's ok. As a storm blew in we were very exposed and knew we were about to get a kicking from above. Our pace was too slow to keep warm. We missed any food opportunities and I just couldn’t stop shaking. I wasn’t particularly cold , the shake comes from the body trying to tell you it needs rest, it needs warm and food and stillness. To override this it takes accepting that your hurting yourself, to my body I say " I hear you body but for now we move , for now we find a way forward, I’ll give you what I can but for now this is our reality and I need you to just work it’ sometimes my mind is stronger than my body and I get angry ‘ ffs sake Rickie move faster’.
The night was rough and as we arrived in cache creek at 2:30am we were slightly deflated by our slow progress, again, the next section had been dark-zoned so we had hoped for a few hours sleep but the slower we were the less sleep we would get. 
A greasy burger and hot chocolate from a gas ( petrol station )station felt like a Michelin starred meal! ( I never eats burgers at home;)
Arriving in Ashcroft at the TA i was empty , I had to sleep , we bedded down for the second 2hr sleep .
As soon as the dark zone lifted we would be on the river which filled me with both fear and excitement at the same time.

I awoke with surprising energy ready for the 51k swift water paddle, back into the itchy drysuit and away we headed down stream with a few other teams. It was like mario cart but in packrafts and slightly higher consequences.

We approached the white water at speed and i saw my team mates in the other boat split right and drop in, i shouted to Ian ‘LEFT LEFT LEFT’ but it was to late and we got highsided by a very large rock , flipping the boat over into the rapid set.
Immediately i pulled my spray deckand I hit my chest on a submerged rock but held onto my paddle and grabbed the boat before it got stripped away , I could just about see Ian at the back of the boat.
We had very little time to get back in before the next set, we flipped the boat and dived in from opposite sides, Ian had to tug me in as i was still half out as we approached the second rapid, bollocks he doesnt have a paddle, steering tthe packraft happens from the back so i gave him my paddle and then all i could was tuck my feet in and hold tight and urm close my eyes.
Thankfully we got the paddle back as we began to hit some of the biggest wave trains ive seen in my life.
The noise was frighteningly thunderous, it rose up from below us, the spray deck could not hold out this volume of water.
All I could see was sky as we pummelled up the face of the wave, as it crested we slapped down with ferocity, my initial joy at surviving such a wave was short lived as what lay before us was multiple sets of these ginormous waves. It was so fast and loud. All I could think of was ‘ must stay in the boat ‘
Paddle paddle paddle , strong fast strokes keeping the blade in the water and counter correcting the wobbles , keep the damn nose straight.
It was demanding , terrifying and fun all at the same time.
It required relentless focus.
For a brief moment of reprieve we drifted under a rail bridge and into a canyon , the warm morning light draped down the steep , rough walls ,glistening serenely on the surface of the water, it was a moment to reflect on how small we are and that it was a complete priviledge to witness such natural beauty.
That peace was short lived as we funnelled into the next wave train when a wave smashed us in the face so hard it knocked Ian’s contact lens sideways and tried to steal the paddle out of his hands, we barrelled down those waves half blind , one handed and with drunken delirium from the power of pure adrenalin !
Finishing that paddle made me feel fair chuffed with myself , when i first got into a kayak in 2021 i could hardly go in a straight line, now we had completed a Canadian grade 3+ , it might not have been stylish but we made it.

After such joyous paddling we then had to ‘portage’ the packrafts/drysuits/ pfds 65km by bike to the next transition.
My poor bum. Our bags became beasts of burden, the weight made my neck hurt and my arms tingle. I allowed myself 10 minutes of inner voice moaning and then it was time to shut up and crack on , it isnt going to get lighter so the only thing I could change was my attitude.
The next paddle section had a dark zone which meant we could get a sleep and we could stop at a petrol station for coffee along the way, little did we know what we would face when we arrived there.

I saw a black bear  scuttle across the track, it looked surprisingly cuddly from a distance.

A course change which meant no sleep and an extra 4hrs hiking with packfatty on my back making it a wholesome 12 hrs of carrying this rubbery beast. I'm pretty sure I shrunk at least 2cm in height after that carry.

The sun creeped slowly into the sky as we tentatively put our very sore butts back in the saddle, we quietly drifted through a small town where solitary tradesmen in big trucks sought out their first coffees of the day in the only early open cafe in town, I looked in at the lights and the warmth and only then did a hard plastic cafe chair seem comfortable, I longed for a cooked breakfast and a shit coffee.

Instead we had the ‘crux’ of the race, which on paper didn’t seem too bonkers 62km 4000m elevation and a ropes section in the middle.
How wrong was I, very.


A very small part of the trek.

Lets begin with a starter of long fireroad lulled into a false sense of speed, an abrupt turn, then ,to be faced with almost impenetrable bush, dense thicket,octopus like vine tendrils, savage springy trees , ankle snapper roots and to add to the cauldron of horror we now had rain.
I got splatted in the face numerous times by twanged branches, I closed my eyes every time to preserve my, well, my sight!
It was steep, slow and hilarious. The absurdity of it was amusing, this is stupid and a good time to remind ourselves we paid to do it.
A whole day had passed and we franticly wanted to get to the ropes before dark just to try and make our lives easier and to enjoy what we could feel was an amazing vista.
A storm had joined us and began slapping us around.
We approached a huge granite apron , I could grasp its enormity even in the dark, I had the stark realisation that I needed to switch my slow paced brain on.
We rappelled down its grey hard face, water streaming down with the grip, my gloves sodden through , clumsy, fumbling fists trying to untie a simple prussic felt like a mensa puzzle. “Ffs Rickie hurry up”
My own hurried monologue.

Again a course change , we could not keep our height as the ridge was now out of bounds, this sucked. I've never been on the ridge but where we ended up next was bloody dangerous in the dark in a storm and id say I have a high tolerance of risk in this kind of environment.

After hours of trying to contour rough ground we needed to gain height the problem was we had gotten into some extremely steep slab terrain. After trying to get up some dodgy ,grass flakes, I had had enough.
We were all spread out ,franticly trying to find a way up.
I could see we were compounding errors and the calculated risk was compromised , compromised by our inability to think and communicate clearly with each other,compromised by the weather and compromised by our urgency.
I wasn’t prepared to keep pushing our luck, If anything happened. I could not explain my actions as I knew my actions were wrong.
I was the only one of this opinion at this point and we will never know what we could’ve got away with but I had to reluctantly force the point that we must stop because too many alarms were going off in my brain.
It was difficult because hyperthermia was a risk, again another reason for wanting to push on But if being on mountain rescue has taught me one thing ,its that it doesn’t matter if the group thinks one thing you need to say out loud if you think somethings not right- thats what team work looks like.
I was adamant and grumpy that we were going to stop. I didn’t wanna to stop either, but I also wanted everyone to get home after all.
So ,our option was to get in the bothy bag until daybreak. I had plenty of layers plus I wrapped a foil blanket underneath my many layers . Four humans in a bothy bag is urr,cosy and is a condensation heavy environment and certainly not like fun camping with pals.
It was up there in my top three roughest nights but we didn’t die .
In the morning, we were frustrated by our time loss but determined to gain that ridge ,the storm had wained and we finally broke through to the ridgeline.
It felt like such a victory to survive the night and emerge like butterflies from a soggy cocoon .
“It’s a new dawn it’s a new day.” Famous song lyrics that ring in my head when a new day arrives and with that the opportunity to start a fresh and re frame my feelings, we are where we are and now we keep going.

For a brief moment we covered some gloriously swift ground only to be thwarted with the final 3km bushwack which took three hours !
At times we were crawling through a fridgid creek bed whilst bush waking, intertwined with all the usual suspects was a new variant of a spiky devil plant, I covered all my skin as I could tell just by looking at this devil it would turn me into a red itchy blob, this place could make you seriously lose your shit, it grabs you scratches you hits you ,pulls you back tears your waterproof trousers into shreds and plays never-ending labyrinth mind games with you.
I made sure anything in my rucksack was tied down tight as we found various evidence where the plants had won the battle against the other racers finding gloves, poles ,snacks all sorts torn from people.
The final kilometre we basically sat on our arses through an old growth forest it was so loose you couldn’t stay upright and we surfed the mud and fell un glamorously to our knees and sometimes our heads.
I could’ve kissed that fire road when I saw it at the end and I’m pretty sure I shouted unceremoniously ‘fuck you ‘ to that bush.
The second night of the trek was upon us and snacks were at an all time low, a final 12km smashfest to TA11 brought us to 37hrs for that leg, we had estimated 20hrs.


Mary and Lizi came out to see us after the crux trek.

My brand new waterproof trousers after the trek.

Some torture occured at this TA , a golden warm woodburner tempeted those of a weary heart, the room smelt of man sweat and fusty feet but that did not dampen my desire to lie down near that woodburner, romantic nostalgia of winter nights at home, I even looked at the dam thing with scorn which is hilarious looking back “ thou shalt not fall into the comfort trap”.

On the bikes We really messed up trying to find a particular track in the dark, new roads , old roads, snowmobile tracks, unmapped paths , we couldnt make sense of it.
I admired another racer who had her spare socks on her hands and sandwhich bags as gloves , it made me chuckle and i could totally relate!

A visit to a local trading post scared the hell out of me , the shop was filled with creepy life size ( and some bigger than me) horror dolls , think Chucky, that made awful noises and leered creepily over my shoulder as I looked at the cakes.
I walked through the door to be greeted by a knife wielding doll, it was like a dark nightmare and so bizarre that it was very funny indeed, even the shop dog was terrified. I swear this did happen as everyone else remembers it too.

We biffed round an orienteering course on china ridge. At this point I started to allow that gentle seeping joy of possibly finishing into my body. I wanted to surf that whole body wave of happiness.
That deep elusive feeling of peace.
Feeling very aware that this is a fleeting powerful sense of fulfiment I held onto it and savoured it, i held it like id never see it again.
I don’t know how to get this feeling any other way , it makes me question my life.
How can this feeling exist yet I can’t find it anywhere but here, at the edge.

With said lovely feeling came the not so lovely stingy bum sensation. A very familiar feeling amongst the long distance cyclist luckily it was a mere 114km along the kettle valley rail trail.
The gravel seemed uphill out of town and the pace was declining, I had an urge to go faster but alas the pace was now ‘the pace’ .
Let me explain ‘the pace’ its an unsaid acceptance that you can no longer go any other speed than what you are currently going, there is no debate or cajoling, no amount of sweets or caffeine pills will effect ‘the pace’ this is it , our movement is this or nothing, its a silent handshake of an agreement that all of us must accept.
Occasionally you can emerge out of the dark tunnel that is ‘the pace’ but sometimes it becomes set in like concrete.

My first time in a canadian canoe was at 3am in the final lake towards the finish.
I surprisingly had some brain power to co ordinate my arms to pull the paddle in a sort of semi useful stroke.
The stars shone even brighter tonight , clouds made curious shapes above me, looking up made me dizzy but I was too curious not to look, the waves were playfully bouncy yet I remained dry and comfortable sat on the hard seat at the front of the canoe .
Canoeing to the end gave me time to reflect , time to say goodbye to part of me that id left out there and time to welcome the new tapestry of memories into what was left of me now.
Part of me is an athlete but a bigger part of me is just a girl in a world that has never made sense , yet out there , in the wild , I have no questions that need answers, just a sense of hopeful awe and wonder and for a brief moment in time its a perfect world to be in.

We made it .


Here is a link to tempt you….


Words: Me
Photos: Guillermo Gutierrez
Mary
 
I raced with Ian, Gary and Cranny but have written this from my point of view, each of us would have lived our own emotions and versions and although we share the journey we all feel it differently.

Monday, 8 June 2015

Highland 550

A wild beast of a race that can't be tamed.

At 550 miles it's not the longest race, but every single one of those miles is hard fought. Throughout this race I was taken to the edge of my technical ability; the edge of my psychological ability to suffer and physically to the edge. "She doesn't care" - Mother Nature, the mountain. You're in her world and sometimes she doesn't want you there. These parts of Scotland bear very few scars of our influence.
It's still truly wild, its beauty is unimaginable until you're there living it, breathing it, surviving through it. My eyes, through cowering eyelids hiding from driving rain, still could hardly believe what they saw.
This right here is freedom and most people will never get off their arse and see it and the truth be told I'm glad because this place will forever be wild just how it's supposed to be.

Leaving Tyndrum we all knew the weather was going to close in and this race was going to have a high drop out rate. I did not want a DNF but how far could I go - can I handle this?
On the first day it's essential to get to Fort Augustas before 9 or 9:30 pm at the latest, otherwise you're going hungry and will have to wait to resupply in the morning, wasting too much time. As I approached the Corrieyairack Pass, which is the final climb before dropping into FA, I realised that time was getting tight.
I pushed on - even waddling over a patch of snow - bursting through the doors of the chippy at 8:55pm, last person in. I tied my chips to my bag knowing I had more in my legs and that the rain was settling in I just wanted to keep moving. Note - chips are not ideal trail snacks: soggy when wet.
In the darkness of the night wading through a bog I then had to climb down to the loch edge. I went for the sit on your arse and fall off edge approach. I wasn't going to get any wetter so it was a good move. Skirting around the loch edge I found a ruin with a roof, relative luxury and respite from the howling wind. Bivvy, bed, chips, 4 am alarm, chips, go.


Haunted ruin, first night's stop. Photo credit Markus Stitz.


When I awoke Mother Nature was still beating her rain drum and the sky was black. I passed the bothy where I bumped into Steve Large, I couldn't keep up with him - he'd obviously had his Weetabix.
My next hurdle, literally, was a deer fence. Seeing as I could barely climb over it without a bike - never mind a fully loaded one - this was not going to be very elegant. Much swearing and shorts snagging later I made it over. I stood and cursed Alan Goldsmith.
Considering that the first part of the race was meant to be easier than the northern loop - dududuuuuu - I was already finding the wind and rain a challenge and wondering how the hell I was going to survive the river crossing. Inner tubes could make a rubber ring in desperate times...

Food supplies are sparse so when a tiny village shop appeared we would all bombard the poor  cashier (normally an old lady) with the same requests: Can you heat my pasty up? Can you fill my water bottles? Coffee? Then we would all promptly spend £15 on anything that wouldn't disintegrate into mush in the rain. Who needs a coffee table when you can sit on the forecourt of a petrol station with a handful of other stinky cyclists, while comsuming an unhealthy amount of E numbers and cross referencing where the next pig out would occur?

Oykel Bridge was the last food stop in a while and - lucky for us - they have become blue dot watchers. They quite often stay open late if they see an approaching dot and welcomed us in regardless of our appearance. At this point in the race people start dropping like wet flies. The approaching nitty gritty section is intimidating and claims its victims purely by reputation.

Light was fading and Mother Nature had taken a deep breath and was about to release an almighty roar. As the wind raged down on us the rain became blinding and I was climbing higher and colder with Dutch Steven. We crested the top together and rode through the saddle of the mountain alongside a loch. Descending through the puddles, I lead us down to a lodge in the middle of nowhere.
I tried the first door of an outbuilding and we bailed inside at top speed. Dutch Steven was polite and was going to head back to camp out in the raging storm. "Don't worry, there's room for two, this is no time to be shy." I quickly came to the realisation that the saw hanging from the hooks on the ceiling must mean we were in an abattoir. And the sticky stuff I had just stood in - in bare feet - was a pool of blood. Not to worry, it was shelter and sometimes you just have to clear your mind of logic and do what you have to to survive. I didn't look in the bin for fear of finding a head.


Photo credit Markus Stitz

The next morning I squelched back into my muddy socks and headed out. She was still raging. The path became so steep that I had to walk with my head down, I just marched on. "Must keep moving to survive, keep on keeping on". Even descending I was on foot. The tussocks were interspersed with deep marshy puddles which swallowed my wheels whole. 
My first river crossing and I could feel the power of the swollen river. Above the loch I could see a majestic waterfall hammering down tons of water which was heading my way. With each steep I could feel the power of the water pushing against my thighs. It was like an arm wrestle I could feel myself losing, then that one final step and I scrambled to safety. I cursed Alan Goldsmith.

As I rode along into Kylesku, shaking violently, I found a scarf on the floor - again desperation won over pride. On closer inspection I realised that it was cashmere, "Darling oh how lavish I'm wiping my nose in cashmere."
It was smart dress only at the fish restaurant - I think the scarf got me in. I joined Mike and Javier. I ordered 3 cappuccinos and 2 egg buttys and they clearly felt sorry for me as I got a double egg in each one! When asked if I would like cutlery, Mike kindly pointed out that I hadn't used any for a while so I'd probably manage.


Photo credit Markus Stitz


The next section was rolling and then we were greeted by an almighty view of the ocean. Mountains leading into the sea is always pretty cool. I spied some excellent secret beaches which looked like romatic bivvy spots, perfect on a warm summer evening as opposed to a wet summer evening. I saw a mum with her tiny son making a sand castle, alone on the beach, his face glowing in the wind and a beaming smile. I really felt the magic of the place and it made my pain go away. Learning to take pleasure in the simple things in life is something we should all do.

After Lochinver things got tough, after eventually reaching Cam Loch the hike alongside it was hideously long and rough.  In all honesty I nearly had an accident because I didn't want to undo my bibs in the biting cold. It was a close call and I am glad no one was around, it was however very unfortunate that there were no trees along this section, you could say I was truly exposed!

Passing Oykel Bridge for the second time meant a chance to get a well earned meal, although again the clock was ticking. Last service 9pm and Dutch Steven and I were 5km away. Heads down and we buried ourselves to get there. My face exploded and had the start of what became a three day nosebleed. Now was not the time to faff with a nosebleed so I decided to ignore it and just spit like a camel when it dripped down the back of my throat. Poor Steven must think all Welsh girls are a bit rough. I bolted through the door and forgot about my face. Luckily the owner was putting a boat on the loch and had rung ahead saying that there were two cyclists going hell for leather towards the pub. I tried to do conversation with the lovely staff between shovelling in some sort of chicken dish while sticking a napkin edge up my nostril.
It was time to find shelter from the rain, while sprinting to the pub I had noticed a stable quite close by. I introduced Dutch Steven to breaking-and-entering. In my defence, I didn't actually break anything. I peeled up the edge of corrugated iron sheet, took off all my expensive Gore-tex, sucked everything in and shimmied myself in. I stood on a petrol can, opened the window and told Steven, "Climb in then," head first he came - all 6ft of him. He cracked me up by saying, "I'm too old for this!" We chuckled together.
We left it as we found it and began a wet slog to Ullapool.

In these races the rule is: if you feel good go and you'll meet again on the trail or at the end. It's your own battle against yourself and the clock, sometimes you need to just be alone and work through your own pain, sometimes you need the distraction of others maybe even sometimes you need to know you're not alone. In the vastness of this wild back country there's some comfort in knowing another cyclist will trip over your corpse if anything does happen.
In Ullapool I bumped into Dutchy at the tea room before heading over another mountain. Then I had the ultimate pleasure of meeting Rich and his son Mini Pips, who is a little superhero. Ten years old and out here tackling this terrain - I'm in awe.

Then came the infamous Fisherfield. It takes hours to even get to the river crossing but then a vast expanse of water spreads out before you. I distinctly remember Alan saying, "The line is good," meaning the GPS track is accurate. I looked up and down the edges for tyre tracks but there were none. High winds and rising water levels had washed away any sign of the riders ahead . I made a quick assessment and was prepared to take the risk. My other options would cost time and energy, both of which I had little of.


Fisherfield crossing


I lifted my bike across my shoulders and took the first cold, tentative step into the dark water. The wind was whipping up spray into my face but my only focus was the distant shore. I was frightened. The water rose past my knees and I wasn't even in the middle yet. I was now fully committed. If I fell here or slipped on the rocks below I'd be in deep trouble. Even activating the emergency spot tracker would just mean they'd be fishing for me. I wished in that moment that I was Moses and I could part the waves and stroll on through, with dry SPDs.
With each step it rose, past my thighs, past my waist and at this point my wheels were floating perilously on the water's surface. When my jersey got wet I totally locked my mind into getting to the other side. "You've got this, you're good, nearly there, easy easy, no drama." As the water peaked around my belly button I knew the next few steps were critical and to my relief my pockets started to drain and could see my legs again - I made it!
One final look and I told myself, "what a stupid thing to do that was". I rolled the dice and got a six.
To exit this vast landscape meant a steep narrow hike-a-bike. There's no room to push and walk so it's an over the shoulder hump to the top. One false summit after another, I was cursing Alan Goldsmith, but then before me lay a feast for the eyes, I nearly cried, the view was mind-blowing. Towering giants surrounded a set of lochs with tiny islands within them. The dark, wild weather was punctuated with a few stray rays of light that glowed on the water's surface. Rolling dark clouds were making there presence felt.
I was ready to drop in. Tight rocky switchbacks stole my attention from the view. Picking my way down and trying to be swift but safe - this was a hoot. As I reached the bottom I saw Javier with two inner tubes in his hand and a flat tyre, it was so windy and cold. After much swearing he was back-tracking to a barn so he could dry the tyre and fix it - I name him the Spanish mountain goat, his enthusiasm and strength are infectious - and he was single speed! I felt for him, although I had found his arm warmers on the trail so that was a bit of good news for him.

Nighttime was arriving and I was still soaked through, then I noticed my front tyre was deflating - bollocks. I wanted to get to Poolewe to get some food and time was running out.
At 8:55 I just about got to the Poolewe Hotel in time. After some very unappetising food I retired to a public toilet. The ensuite facilities were excellent and I had enough room to fix my tyre with a old toothpaste tube. I could just about lie down with my head at an acceptable distance from the loo... only just.

Photo credit Markus Stitz

In the morning I rose at 4am and packed my kit, as I tried to stand I fell straight to the floor. I looked down and my ankles had swollen right up. I forced on my left shoe but my right shoe would not swallow my foot. "I'll ride with no shoe, that's a great plan" - quickly I realised that a woollen sock was just not going to get me very far so I did what any sensible person would do and that's have a really good cry, I mean a really good wail. I phoned the other half (I momentarily forgot it was 4am) and wailed down the phone. I wasn't ready to quit just because of kankles. I had no option but to lie down in a pooey sheep barn and wait for a 2cm reduction. I'd ran out of food so waiting for the shop to open was another reason to wait it out.
In a way, although I lost time it did mean I got to meet Fat Phil - fat bike not a fat Phil - and that was a real pleasure. I introduced myself with a hug - sorry about that. 

At the tiny tea shop a women from California came in and asked for an americano. I held in my laugh as the sweet old dear working there had no clue what she was talking about. After eating all her eggs and getting a blow-by-blow account of her operation on her arthritic joints, it was time to face the almighty headwind and rain to begin the beast of a climb from Torridon. 
The weather was kicking my butt and my feet were unbearably sore but I just couldn't quit. I looked up through the storm and saw Phil's silhouette. Across his shoulders, a beast of burden, he was climbing with a fully loaded fat bike up a very steep rock face. Then the stark realisation that I too would have to scramble my way up set in. I let out a roar and began dragging myself towards the sky, giving myself a good talking to with each laboured step, telling the rain to fuck off! Phil and I met at the top and all I could see was rock. Wet, tyre-slicing rock. No time to mess around up here, we had to get off this mountain sharpish. Making each split second line choice while under such pressure was intense. I tried to stay relaxed and then I saw Phil glance back and I knew he was keeping an eye out. In that moment I felt so touched that a guy I'd met in the morning just gave me a knowing glance that meant so much, a look that said a thousands words.
The violent shakes appeared again, my eyes were vibrating in my head and I still had the nosebleed. Luckily the Strathcarron pub was close and we arrived to find a collection of other quivering riders: Dutch Steven, Javier, Alan, Andy. We all immediately tried booking rooms. Being cold and wet for so long took hours to recover from, that night I had my only wash of the whole race. We told the landlord that we would all be off by 4am so he packed us all a goodie bag for breakfast. At 4am Phil and I sat on the floor eating chocolate muffins listening to the ongoing rain on the window. I then remembered it was my birthday - excellent, I'll celebrate with a climb or two. I mustered up my motivation, had a sip of MTFU juice and just cracked on.
Dornie seemed like a nice place, shame we had to ride on through. By pure coincidence, or not given that it was the only place that served coffee, nearly all of us crossed paths at the petrol station obviously we were there to fill up on our second breakfasts. Javier was now also sporting a fine pair of kankles.

Glen Affric was the first time the wind blew us along and I was exceptionaly glad of it given that this valley is incredibly long. Brief glimpses of the sun were followed by sharp downpours but regardless of the weather there was no denying this valley is stunning. For me, getting to Fort Augustus was a big moment. I was a little more familiar with the route and I knew my feet would hold out. Javier was outside the Londis dressing himself in bin bags seeing as his waterproof shorts looked like a flapping sail. He even wore a PVC hat - still smiling.

Photo credit Markus Stitz

I was hoping the Caledonian canal would be easy but Mr Windy decided otherwise. After 30km I bid farewell to Phil and passed out in a Forestry Commission shed with a nest of swallows for company. Regardless of the pain, I was looking forward to riding the next day.
I worked hard on the West Highland Way and aimed for breakfast in Kinlochleven, where I ate five croissants in a row. As I headed towards round two of the Devil's Staircase I met Alan at the bottom. We set a good pace but I couldn't keep up when we had to do footwork. I enjoyed ascending the final big climb, I wanted to soak up every sense I could. I noticed walkers, which there hadn't been many of on the northern loop, I also noticed how clean they smelled.

I've never felt more alive. I was going to make it, I knew I could walk back from here if anything went wrong. The longer I rode the route the more anxiety I felt about finishing, I didn't want to be beaten by weather or mechanicals - things that are often out of your control.

I expected nothing and no one at the finish. I expected to just bask in the glory of a completed challenge and many lessons learnt. I know that to be the ultimate racer in these events there's only one thing that will make you the best and that's experience, so I'm just going to keep on experiencing until I get really good.
To my surprise Alan, Phil, Mike, Dutchy, Jessie and Sarah were waiting at the finish. I had to hold in my inner girliness and avoid a tear. I was given some lovely balloons and a very special hand drawn picture from little Jessie and inside the picture was a pink flipping rabbit. I also got a lovely carrot cake, complete with candles. Jessie and I blew out the candles together - as I'd ran out of puff - and then the cake went in one go.

Photo credit Sarah


Never in my life have I dug so deep and taken so many risks. To complete this I sailed close to the wind and got pushed right out my comfort zone. This is the toughest event I've ever done. It's everything an adventure should be - unpredictable, wild, beautiful and, dare I say it, life-changing. I walk away (well, hobble) feeling stronger knowing that there are still wild places and warm-hearted people and that together in tough scenarios we show humanity to each other and battle on. Not forgetting the riding - frikin awesome.

I thank Alan Goldsmith.




Monday, 11 May 2015

The Tuscany Trail

The Tuscany trail is a self-supported bivvy thingy through the mountains just shy of 400 miles, nothing too dramatic.
I had the privilege of riding with fellow Transcon finisher and Starley Primal rider Gaby Leveridge. Also joining us was a member of the Total Women's Cycling team Lorena Jones. Officially a girls weekend!



Stick three girls in a random sports hall with 200 Italian men and it's like bees around a honey pot. No less than four fluoro Italian stallions tried to help Gaby put her wheel in. Apparently you never see girls biking in Italy, they like to shop (an Italian said that not me), so we made the newspaper. I was sporting my best fluoro jacket.
We left under grey skies being chased by an impending storm but nothing could stop us as we were powered by pastry and loaded up noticeably lighter than most. Lots of fattys (bikes not people) and the odd crosser; a right bag of all sorts.



On the first climb everyone ambled along together, very civilised. When we arrived at the goats and donkeys section it was time for a hike-a-bike. I was glad I left the kitchen sink at home as I launched my bike over my shoulder and legged it up. Being short I feel I need to work faster and made good time. Occasionally I nipped down to help Loza and left Gabby to it as I know she's hard as nails and will just crack on.


We made a quick desicion and Loza went on a nice train ride to Florence. We needed to smash over the pass before it got really dark. We expected a big up and a big down but we actually got a camels back which sucked out every ounce of energy we had. The night drew in and the forest became alive once more with its natural inhabitants. I got eyeballed by a stag who turned away and flashed his white rear as he danced off into the darkness. A few bats squeaked around above us and the occasional scuttle could be heard from the bushes.



A welcome relief came when we spotted some light pollution in the distance, this meant only one thing: pizza! A time trial to the pizza and 24 inches of dough later we no longer felt 'the hunger'.
Our next challenge was to bed down. We found a very regal B&B and when I walked in I thought I'd stumbled into a family dinner. They were fully booked but luckily our knight in shining lycra sat alone at a table and after much gesticulation and hand-waving we got the go ahead to share his room. Kindly we got the gigantic four-poster while he galently took the camping bed. We rudely woke him at 4:30 am and peddled off into the soggy darkness.
We were in the flow, heads down women on a mission. At 6:30 am we were ready for breakfast. Our standard order of four cappuccinos was placed, along with a tuna sandwich. I'm not the weirdo who ordered the 6.30am fish sandwich, although I did get the urge to buy a scratch card, which I feel is equally strange. I had three croissants and it all came to about €7.



Arriving in Florence riding along the river provides the quintessential Tuscan image. As cities go negotiating it wasn't too hectic and we were soon above it. I took one last peek at the city and then the focus turned to the Garmin. Making navigation errors is costly so I really felt that not getting complacent and staying on course was important. Between Gaby and I we had it dialed.
Through the undulating countryside we rode and now the route followed a lot of the Eroica route, white gravel roads through vineyards and rich agricultural land leading us towards the ever-warming South.
We got lucky and managed to get to the supermarket just as it was shutting. All three of us overshopped and sat on the floor having a stinky cyclists picnic.
Seeing as we had reached our daily target we decided that it was bivvy time. We picked a suitable field and got cosy, well, as cosy as using an spd for a pillow can get. I was feeling rather smug in my posh new sleeping bag (360g, plus 5 degree, custom made, cost of a months rent, all-singing all-dancing bag made of the finest duck feathers known to man) whereas race whippet Gaby assumed the prayer position for the whole night to retain what little heat she had left. Loza was losing her bivvying virginity and seemed to find grass as suitable as a memory foam mattress promptly drifting to land of nod.



Up at 4:30 am, the first climb was very welcome. We soon passed some other cyclists rustling around in the bushes, we met Giacomo and Alpkit Kenny later that day and they said they'd heard us coming. I shamelessly told Kenny how much I love Alpkit.
The route took us through some pretty spectacular fortified towns with traditional tall narrow streets, cobbled pavestones and a glowing orange hue that can only emit from warm, old Italian earth. It even smelt good. The route now was rolling hills and endless sky. My gelato consumption was impressive and my caffiene requirements excessive!
I was free. Free from rules, free from reality. In that moment I wanted for nothing. This is the life.
After 16 hours of riding we decided to save the island as tommorow's final swan song. With talk of single track we decided it would be fun during the day and that we weren't going to miss our flight so we could relax a bit. Booking into a hotel we then smuggled Gaby in over the balcony. Luckily we were on the ground floor so she didn't have to scale the drain pipes
Starting at 4.30 am is surprisingly energizing. The anticipation of a beautiful sunrise is the perfect reward for getting out of bed. The island provided a change of terrain: quite rocky double track snaking along and through the mountains with a vast beautiful sea down below and the sharp light totally blinding as you crest around a shaded bend.
The "hunger" was taking hold and Gaby and I were contemplating snorting a Torq powder sachet (because water was running low). Judging by the Garmin we would be dropping into a port town quite soon. Narrowly avoiding powder snorting we made for the nearest food emporium. We found the most delicious sandwich shop which had a bar next door serving coffee and behind that was the beach.
We sat in the roaring sun looking out to sea and inhaled our picnic and four coffees, a three course breakfast was neccesary and Gaby hit the jackpot with a bucket of fresh fruit and yoghurt. We dipped our toes in the sea and almost decided on a full submerge as we'd soon dry off in the heat but a salty, wet chamois might not be too pleasant after a couple of long days in the saddle!
We decided to nail ourselves in a TT to the end (just to be silly) plus a sprint finish. It was getting warm and it was time to end the Tuscan adventure and focus on the logistics of navigating Italian trains back to Florence.
No huge crowds, no fanfare, just warm internal peace and satisfaction, knowing you spent your weekend free time wisely and in the following days when you're slaving away at work you'll dream fondly of that moment, when all you had to do was RIDE.